For her debut as Bulgari’s new creative director of leather goods and accessories, Mary Katrantzou didn’t have to look far for inspiration. Just a stone’s throw from the luxury house’s Roman headquarters, she found her muse in the ancient Baths of Caracalla – once one of the seven wonders of Rome.
“I wanted to create something uniquely Bulgari,” Katrantzou explains. “Something that would speak to the brand’s DNA.” The answer lay in the bath’s spectacular third-century mosaics, whose fan-shaped patterns had already inspired Bulgari’s iconic Divas’ Dream collection.
These stunning mosaics, recently restored to their former glory thanks to Bulgari’s patronage, now serve as the foundation for Katrantzou’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. The centerpiece? A striking new accessory called the Ginkgo clutch, which transforms ancient patterns into modern luxury.
The design draws on what Katrantzou calls the ‘Calla’ motif – a versatile pattern that echoes both the ginkgo leaf and the elegant calla lily, whose Greek name means “magnificent beauty”. The restoration work, completed in 2016, revealed marble tiles in jewel-like shades of pearl, amethyst, emerald, and gold – colors that perfectly align with Bulgari’s jewelry heritage.
Where Heritage Meets Innovation
The Ginkgo clutch itself is a masterclass in minimalist luxury. Hanging from a leather strap, it isolates a single ‘Calla’ motif, allowing its sculptural silhouette to take center stage. Crafted from supple nappa leather and precisely shaped metal, it showcases Bulgari’s expertise in both leather craftsmanship and jewelry-making.
“The ‘Calla’ pattern offers endless possibilities for interpretation,” Katrantzou reflects, “but they all lead back to Bulgari.” Indeed, this sophisticated accessory bridges past and present, proving that even two-thousand-year-old designs can feel thoroughly modern in the right hands.